What is pinakbet. Pinakbet, also called pakbet, is one of the best-known dishes of Ilocano cuisine. It brings together vegetables such as bitter melon, eggplant, okra and tomatoes, seasoned with fermented fish bagoong. Served in homes, local eateries and restaurants throughout Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur, it reflects the region’s agricultural traditions and its appreciation of bitter, salty and savoury flavours.
For visitors exploring Ilocos, pinakbet is an opportunity to taste a dish closely connected with everyday cooking. Although it is now served across the Philippines, the traditional Ilocano preparation differs from versions found elsewhere. The vegetables, seasoning and amount of liquid vary between households, and some cooks add pork or bagnet. These differences make pinakbet worth trying in more than one place.
Pinakbet is a mixed-vegetable dish originating in the Ilocos region of northern Luzon. Its name comes from the Ilocano word pinakebbet, meaning shrunk or shrivelled, referring to the appearance of the vegetables as they cook. It is often described as a vegetable stew, although traditional Ilocano versions may contain relatively little liquid. The vegetables cook together with tomatoes, bagoong and a small amount of water, concentrating their flavours as they soften. Pinakbet can accompany fish or meat, but it can also be the principal dish of a meal, served with rice.
The vegetables most closely associated with pinakbet are ampalaya, or bitter melon; talong, or eggplant; okra; and kamatis, or tomatoes. Small, native varieties are valued by many Ilocano cooks. Young eggplants and small bitter melons can be cooked whole or cut into relatively large pieces, depending on their size. Beans, chillies, sweet potato and other vegetables may be included. The selection reflects what is available and the preferences of the household rather than a single recipe followed throughout Ilocos. The vegetables provide contrasting textures and flavours. Eggplant softens and absorbs the cooking liquid, okra contributes body, tomatoes provide acidity, and bitter melon supplies the bitterness that is characteristic of the dish.
Bagoong isda, made from fermented fish, is central to traditional Ilocano pinakbet. Bagoong monamon, associated with anchovies, is one variety used.
The bagoong supplies salt and a concentrated savoury flavour. Some cooks dilute it with water and strain the liquid before adding it to the vegetables, separating larger fish bones and solids.
It is important to distinguish fish bagoong from bagoong alamang, made from small shrimp. Both are used in Filipino cooking, but they produce different flavours. Fish bagoong is particularly associated with the Ilocano preparation, while shrimp paste is common in Tagalog-style pinakbet.
The bitterness of ampalaya is an important part of pinakbet. It contrasts with the saltiness of bagoong, the acidity of tomatoes and the milder flavours of the other vegetables. Ilocano cooking includes several dishes in which bitterness is appreciated rather than removed completely. Pinakbet introduces visitors to this aspect of the cuisine without requiring unfamiliar meat or offal. The strength of the bitterness depends on the variety of ampalaya, its maturity and its preparation. Each household has preferences about how much to include and how the final dish should taste.
Traditional Ilocano pinakbet is commonly associated with cooking vegetables together in a covered pot, allowing their juices to combine with the seasoned liquid. Some preparations begin with tomatoes, ginger and other ingredients before the vegetables are arranged above them. The order and size of the vegetables matter because they do not all cook at the same rate. The aim is to soften them sufficiently while retaining their individual character. Some cooks gently shake or turn the pot rather than repeatedly stirring its contents. This helps move the cooking liquid through the vegetables without breaking the softer pieces apart. The result is a dish in which the ingredients remain recognisable.
My sister-in-law says the secret to good pinakbet is not to overcook the vegetables. I agree: eggplant should be tender, but the entire dish should not become a soft, indistinguishable mixture. There is room for different preferences. A traditional preparation may have visibly shrivelled vegetables, as the name suggests, while a restaurant may serve them firmer.The important point is balance. The vegetables should have time to absorb the seasoning without losing all their texture, and the bagoong should complement their flavour rather than simply make the dish salty.
One of the main regional differences is the seasoning. Ilocano pinakbet generally uses fermented fish bagoong, while Tagalog pinakbet commonly uses shrimp paste.
Tagalog versions also frequently include kalabasa, or squash, and may begin by sautéing garlic, onion and tomatoes in oil. The squash contributes sweetness and can thicken the sauce as it softens.
Many traditional Ilocano preparations omit squash and finish with less liquid. However, these distinctions describe common styles rather than rules followed by every family. Cooks adapt recipes, and vegetables move readily between regional versions.
Pork is a familiar addition to some versions of pinakbet. Pieces of pork belly may be cooked with the vegetables, adding flavour and fat to the dish. In Ilocos, bagnet provides another option. This crisp, deep-fried pork can be added during preparation or placed on top before serving. Adding it near the end preserves more of its crispness, while cooking it with the vegetables allows it to absorb the seasoned liquid. Both approaches are found, and the choice changes the texture of the finished meal. Pork is an addition, however, rather than a requirement for every preparation of pinakbet.
Pinakbet contains vegetables, but traditional versions are not vegetarian because the seasoning is made from fish. Shrimp-paste versions are also unsuitable for vegetarians, even when no pork is added. A vegetarian adaptation can use a different seasoning, although this changes the traditional flavour. For visitors with dietary requirements or fish and shellfish allergies, the seasoning is therefore as relevant as the visible ingredients.
Dinengdeng, also known as inabraw, is another Ilocano vegetable dish seasoned with fish bagoong. It can contain leafy greens, flowers, beans, gourds and other available vegetables. The main difference is usually the preparation and amount of broth. Dinengdeng is generally more soup-like, while pinakbet is often cooked down to a more concentrated vegetable dish. Grilled or fried fish is commonly associated with dinengdeng. Both dishes demonstrate how Ilocano cooks use local produce and fermented fish seasoning to create meals with relatively few ingredients.
Pinakbet is served with rice and can accompany grilled fish, fried fish or meat. The rice balances the seasoned vegetables and absorbs the remaining sauce.It belongs equally to everyday meals and family gatherings. In Ilocos Norte, it is part of a wider food tradition that values vegetables alongside dishes such as bagnet, longganisa and igado. Trying pinakbet in a local eatery or restaurant provides an introduction to that tradition, while revealing how much a familiar dish can vary between cooks.
What is Pinakbet? Pinakbet expresses much of what makes Ilocano cooking distinctive: local vegetables, fermented fish seasoning and an appreciation of bitterness alongside salty and savoury flavours. Whether served simply with rice, accompanied by grilled fish or topped with bagnet, it remains closely connected with the farms and family kitchens of Ilocos. Tasting different preparations is an enjoyable way to understand the dish and the regional cuisine from which it developed. What is Pinakbet? All you need to know is here.